Liling Ong: The Alchemist Who Turns Simple Into Sublime

The dining scene in Singapore is as dynamic as the city itself with new establishments sprouting up almost weekly, each vying for the attention of patrons. Conversely, closures are just as frequent with many shuttering their doors within their first year. This volatility and constant churn means only the strongest survive; a brutal reality that even the brightest star can fade. With over a decade of experience since founding Cicheti in 2013, restaurateur Liling Ong is no stranger to these vagaries. While Casa Cicheti, Liling’s latest Italian concept, may look like the group’s calculated plan to expand its footprint, it is her most personal one to date—a move that happened fortuitously. It’s a week before Casa Cicheti is slated to open. As we sit down to discuss her motivations, longevity in a highly mercurial industry, and approach towards dining, I soon discover that the 38-year-old isn’t chasing any kind of validation or recognition. (She told Daniel Eng, Head of Marketing & PR, that she wasn’t interested in doing any interviews or media tastings for the first few weeks.) Most know Liling as an arbiter of taste, due to Forma’s sought-after popularity. But what is overlooked is her alchemist-like ability to transform ordinary dining experiences into the extraordinary, with an ease that is hard to replicate. For her, being in the restaurant industry has a deeper resonance; an inspiring dimension that simple can be sublime, which in a world that frequently prioritises trends over substance, is an antithesis. What matters to Liling more is serving moreish food, being punctilious about the preparation and giving her team the agency and opportunities to grow within the company—all the tenets required to create experiences that linger far beyond the table.
Early Inspiration
Pete’s Place at the Grand Hyatt Singapore was where five-year-old Liling formed her first memories of Italian cuisine. Weekly visits with her family turned into cherished traditions. She fondly remembers Ozman, the Malay manager, who became a family friend, and the rustic charm of the salad and bread station. “Nobody does it now like they did back then,” she says.
As Liling grew older, institutions like Ristorante Da Valentino further shaped her love for dining at places that felt like home. This sense of nostalgia drives her to create concepts and spaces that feel timeless, where families can build their own rituals and connections. “I don't listen or look at what is happening around me, I don't go to openings, I don't look at lists or round-ups,” she says. “This makes me pure and focused. If I look at others, I will constantly benchmark myself against them and that’s not healthy.”
The Serendipitous Beginnings of Casa Cicheti
Designed to resemble a family’s dining room, Casa Cicheti, located in Tiong Bahru, radiates the warmth of a loving embrace—a hallmark of Liling’s belief that every diner should feel at home once they enter. “We wanted to create a space where people feel like they’re coming home,” she explains. The menu, curated with precision, celebrates the soulful traditions of Italian home cooking.
Among her favourites is the tomato rigatoni that masterfully balances simplicity and indulgence—each al dente bite coated in a rich, velvety tomato sauce that hits the spot. “It’s so fresh and it tastes incredible,” she says. “At Casa Cicheti, I want to create a place where people can come back again and again. It has to be familiar. You can’t create something that's too creative and gastronomic in Tiong Bahru.”
The journey to opening Casa Cicheti was as organic as it was challenging, born not from chasing opportunities but from embracing the natural flow of life. Liling had reached a stage in her career where she was no longer seeking out projects but taking stock—allowing the right ones to find her. Casa Cicheti was one of those serendipitous opportunities she couldn’t ignore.
It all began with a phone call from the team behind PS.Cafe. (The long-standing brand that held a deep connection to the space.) The landlord, keen to inject fresh energy into the historic estate, suggested a meeting. When Liling met her at Forma, she felt the pull of fate. Despite the group's cautious stance on growth in uncertain times, Casa Cicheti was an innate calling that aligned with her values and passions. (Recognised by the government as a placemaker, Liling chooses locations slightly removed from the main street, balancing accessibility with a sense of understated charm.)
Naming the restaurant was like a puzzle piece that fell into place quickly. In collaboration with Ronald Kamiyama and Lim Yew Aun, the idea of “casa”—meaning “little home” in Italian—emerged naturally, perfectly encapsulating the vision of a warm, lived-in space. Inspired by the cosy allure of a European farmhouse, the interiors were meticulously crafted to feel rustic. From aged wood with natural imperfections to carefully sourced antiques, every detail handpicked by Liling reflects a design narrative that evokes an intimate sensibility.
Yet, bringing Casa Cicheti to life was anything but smooth. The space demanded a complete structural overhaul; from outdated pipes to faulty electrical wiring and soundproofing requirements that HDB judiciously enforced to ensure the comfort of residents. Liling recalls a comment from her interior designer, while they were in Milan on a sourcing trip. She told me, “You’ve got balls, because of the sheer amount of work needed for this project.”
Her Culinary Philosophy
The dining scene fêtes anything exclusive, voguish, or avant-garde. Liling shuns from either, choosing a path of familiarity—because food to her, is a language of connection. Her menus at Cicheti, Bar Cicheti, Wild Child, and Forma are approachable with charming and flavourful classics that invite diners to savour the moment, not just the meal. “The best meals are the ones where I remember who I was with,” she muses. “It’s less about dissecting the techniques and more about the feeling it leaves behind.”
Achieving simplicity often involves an intricate balancing act: eliminating the superfluous while ensuring that what remains feels complete. “There’s a beauty in doing simple food exceptionally well,” she says. This process of distillation, refinement and clarity demands both discipline and insight, which Liling has skilfully perfected. “Everyone strives for a simple life but simplicity has depth and layers,” she adds.
Liling also adheres to a purist approach when it comes to her ingredients. Freshness takes precedence, with every dish prepared à la minute—there’s no sous vide machine in sight, a conscious decision to preserve the energy and vitality of live cooking. Her chefs, trained across every aspect of the menu, embrace this wholeheartedly, ensuring that every plate speaks to the honesty of the kitchen and the integrity of the ingredients. A testament to the beauty of doing things the hard way, the right way, the human way.
“I let the seasonal products speak for themselves,” she says. This respect for produce means nothing is overworked; flavours are coaxed, not forced.
Beyond the Silver Spoon
Privilege is often seen but rarely understood. And this perception of privilege has always been a double-edged sword. “That’s how people see me,” she admits, “but it’s not how I see myself.” Raised in a supportive yet strict household, Liling acknowledges the advantages she’s had, but dismantles all assumptions that her path has been smooth sailing. (Her father is Ong Yew Huat, former Executive Chairman of Ernst & Young Singapore and her late grandfather Ong Swee Law founded and built the Singapore Zoo.)
“I’ve heard comments like that throughout my career,” she shares. “But I’m a private person, so how would anyone know how I was raised?” Her upbringing, while modern and open-minded, was far from indulgent with a strong sense of responsibility nurtured from an early age. When Cicheti was first established in a building owned by her family, Liling was adamant about paying market rates. “This was my learning,” she emphasises. “My parents made sure I earned every step forward.” Privilege was not a shortcut to success, but an added layer of expectation to navigate.
“Having resources doesn’t solve problems, it often makes them harder,” she says. “If you just throw money at challenges, the problems don’t disappear; they fester. Every decision, whether it’s about the quality of a napkin or the feasibility of an idea, must be deeply considered. Without that discipline, you risk glazing over the essence of what truly matters.” This mindset has shaped her perspective on entrepreneurship, a journey that requires acute listening and relentless problem-solving. Skills that no amount of privilege can buy.
The last few years have posed challenges; from managing manpower to persevering through the significant shocks of a global pandemic and inflation. Yet, Liling remains unfazed and anchored at her core. “It’s about intention,” she asserts. “Every decision we make is rooted in our values and that’s what sustains us.”
A Leader Who Empowers, Not Overpowers
Born under the Chinese zodiac sign of the Tiger, Liling likens her leadership style to that of the big cat—calm and watchful until a moment demands action. “When I get upset, I ask myself if it’s legitimate,” she says. Her focus is never on placing blame, but on guiding the ship back to its course.
Liling also eschews rigid hierarchy, fostering a collaborative environment where her team has the latitude to take ownership. “A restaurant is only as strong as the people behind it,” she says. “When I work with my team there is complete trust and complete freedom to do their job the best way they think they can. We are in the business of people. I don't want robots, I want people with personalities that shine through. And I am very accessible. Even after midnight if someone needs me, I am just a call away—I work for my team.”
At her core lies a profound self-awareness where Liling allows her team room to stumble, recognising that mistakes are necessary for growth. “I don’t sweat the small stuff anymore,” she admits, a mark of wisdom gained through experience.
Quiet struggles are an inevitable part of leadership and Liling is candid about the moments of self-doubt that creep in, especially in an industry as competitive as hers. “I feel it all the time,” she confesses, her gaze drifting thoughtfully into the distance. Her restaurants have built a reputation for rigorous training, making her top talent attractive targets for poaching. She reflects on the internal tug-of-war: whether to fight to keep her brightest talent or to let them find their paths. “As a leader, you question yourself—where did I fail them? Could I have done more to keep their fire burning?” It’s a delicate waltz she’s learnt, between nurturing talent and recognising when it’s time to let go.
This lesson came hard-won. In the early days, some of her top performers left, seeking opportunities where they felt seen and valued. “I realised that even the brightest flames need tending,” she reflects. “If you don’t give them the attention they deserve, they’ll eventually burn out or leave.” Now, her stewardship is a carefully calibrated mix of empowering her team to make independent decisions and providing direction when the situation demands it.
There aren’t many female restaurateurs in Singapore, let alone those devoted to a single cuisine and committed to developing an all-local team. And while Liling holds firm to her belief in the immense potential of local talent, she admits that “it wasn’t a deliberate decision at first.” “It happened organically, but I realised there was a deeper prejudice to confront—the assumption that only foreign chefs could excel in this space,” she says.
She noted the lack of recognition given to local talent, questioning why a European chef would be deemed more adept at extracting flavors than someone who grew up understanding the nuances of the local palate. “We just wanted to cook food that resonated with the people here, and that meant working with those who truly understood what that meant,” Liling adds.
A Group With Purpose and Heart
In an industry consumed by speed and profitability, Liling’s definition of success is refreshingly grounded and purposeful. “Building a business with integrity takes time,” she says. “I wanted to grow sustainably, with the right people, creating a corporate culture that feels stable and strong. Growth without that foundation isn’t real—it’s fleeting.”
It’s been over two hours and there isn’t any posturing, ego, or endearing energy to impress from her at all. What lingers is a conviction and light in her eyes when she talks about the nurturing act of designing spaces, putting food on the table, and wanting to leave a legacy for her daughter. “It’s important to show her that it’s possible to have both—a family and a career that inspires you,” she says.
A creator of quiet brilliance, a dreamer with deliberate intent, and a visionary who sees poetry in the smallest of gestures, Liling’s concepts are a reminder that true effortlessness is the ultimate result of refined effort and tireless work behind the scenes. You might assume that she always aspired to be in F&B or that it was part of her grand plan, but this vocation was something she stumbled into, not sought out.
Much like the protagonist in Paulo Coelho’s The Alchemist, Liling embarked on her journey not knowing the exact path, but trusting that the universe would guide her to her true north. (Before starting Cicheti, she tried her hand at law and leadership consulting briefly and founded a high-end handbag business.)
Her pursuit wasn’t just about reaching a destination, but about finding herself through each experience, every challenge, and the lessons along the way. By fully embracing the alchemy of life, where passion and purpose merged, she discovered her true calling—just as Coelho's hero did when he realised that the treasure was within him all along.