Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants: Odette Knocks Gaggan Off To Claim Top Spot
It was a night of glitz, glamour and too much suckling pig and fried chicken at the seventh edition of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 held at Macao’s Wynn Palace. Even though the hotel’s golden toiletries and larger-than-life bathtub acted as a temporary distraction, the results were what carried the night away. If you haven’t already heard, Gaggan who won 4 times in a row has been dethroned by Singapore’s Julien Royer of Odette. It’s big news, but in the larger scheme of things, this slip doesn’t significantly affect Gaggan as the chef-owner has plans to close his 2-star Michelin restaurant in 2020 to concentrate on his ventures in Japan.
As a newly inaugurated member of the #50BestTasteHunter circle, it was a largely intimidating experience to be rubbing shoulders with a high concentration of culinary gods just days before the awards ceremony. Wynn Macau in collaboration with World’s 50 Best pulled out all the stops—towing in guest chefs from all around the world to participate in a dining series and wowed guests with ostentatious rooms big enough to fit a pied-à-terre. In the midst of debauchery, my brain was stimulated by #50BestTalks that discussed issues such as sustainability, sourcing and the vitality of ingredients that shape Asian gastronomy. We stuffed our faces with Cinco Jotas Jamón and Chinese flatbread filled with Mangalica pork between breaks and tore through a 20-course tapas menu with Chef Fran Agudo of Tickets, from Albert Adrià’s empire of restaurants. Produce is exemplary, flavours encountered, paramount.
Back to the results. OK, I’ll start: It’s fantastic. Surprise additions to the list include Dewakan which debut at No. 46, putting Malaysia on the map for the first time in history. It’s about time. I still fantasise about the black banana porridge. Then there’s Toyo Eatery representing the Philippines back on the charts and Singapore’s very own Nouri entering the list at No. 39.
Greater China came out on top with a total of 13 entries on the list including the highest climber, Belon, a French restaurant helmed by British chef Daniel Calvert that scaled from No. 40 last year to No. 15. this year. Following closely on its heels is Japan with 12, Thailand with 8 and Singapore with 7.
Elit Vodka Asia’s Best Female Chef, Garima Arora made a show-stopping debut at No. 16, placing Gaa as the highest new entry for the 2019 awards. Her meteoric rise reminded me of our interview where she spoke about ignoring gender-biased attitudes to get to the top, despite growing up in a regimented society.
Tokyo-based patissier Fabrizio Fiorani was named Asia’s Best Pastry Chef, a prediction I could have made based on his white truffle latte dessert in Bulgari Il Ristorante Luca Fantin. The mischievous composition of layers of Hokkaido milk, blithe bits of pine nuts and shavings of Alba white truffle boast attention to craft while remaining whimsical. Even if you’re not a sweets person, Fabrizio’s jovial mannerism and impossibly satisfying desserts will compel you to indulge in his fleeting pleasures.
Here is the full list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2019:
- Odette, Singapore
- Gaggan, Bangkok
- Den, Tokyo
- Sühring, Bangkok
- Florilege, Tokyo
- Ultraviolet by Paul Pairet, Shanghai
- Mume, Taipei
- Narisawa, Tokyo
- Nihonryori Ryugin, Tokyo
- Burnt Ends, Singapore
- The Chairman, Hong Kong
- Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Hong Kong
- Mingles, Seoul
- La Cime, Osaka
- Belon, Hong Kong
- Gaa, Bangkok
- Indian Accent, New Delhi
- Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, Tokyo
- Lan, Bangkok
- Le Du, Bangkok
- Amber, Hong Kong
- Nahm, Bangkok
- Sazenka, Tokyo
- La Maison de la Nature Goh, Fukuoka, Japan
- Sushi Saito, Tokyo
- L’Effervescence, Tokyo
- Jade Dragon, Macao
- Paste, Bangkok
- Fu He Hui, Shanghai
- Raw, Taipei
- Shoun Ryugin, Taipei
- Jaan, Singapore
- Les Amis, Singapore
- Vea, Hong Kong
- Ministry of Crab, Colombo, Sri Lanka
- Wing Lei Palace, Macao
- Neighborhood, Hong Kong
- Lung King Heen, Hong Kong
- Nouri, Singapore
- Waku Ghin, Singapore
- Toctoc, Seoul
- Locavore, Bali, Indonesia
- Toyo Eatery, Manila
- Seventh Son, Hong Kong
- Quintessence, Tokyo
- Dewakan, Kuala Lumpur
- Sugalabo, Tokyo
- Sorn, Bangkok
- Corner House, Singapore
- Ta Vie, Hong Kong